Showing posts with label BUKIT FRASER. Show all posts
Showing posts with label BUKIT FRASER. Show all posts

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

BUKIT FRASER TRAVEL GUIDE


Clock tower and post office

Fraser's Hill is named after Louis James Fraser, a Scotsman who prospected for gold in Australia but eventually struck tin here instead in the 1890s. Employing Chinese miners to do the hard work for him and earning his keep by operating mule trains down the mountain, Fraser set up opium and gambling dens to increase his profits, which may have had something to do with his subsequent mysterious disappearance. The tin ran out in 1913, but the lush valley within was rediscovered as a colonial hill resort that, thanks to its 1524 m elevation, enjoys considerably cooler temperatures than Kuala Lumpur. By 1922 a road had been cut through the mountains to the valley, which soon sprouted bungalows and even one of Malaya's first golf courses.
Not much has changed since, and Fraser's Hill retains a wonderfully weird mixed-up character, where locals eat curries off banana leaves in a English cottage next to a golf course while the call to prayer sounds from the mosque.


Orientation

Orienting yourself in Fraser's Hill is easy enough: the entrance via the Gap is at the southwest corner of the valley and the "center" as such is at the intersection of Jalan Genting and Jalan Lady Guillemard, with the much-photographed clock tower marking the spot. Most restaurants and shops are clustered here, while the golf course takes up the bottom of the valley and bungalows and swanky residences dot the hills all around.
Public transport on the Hill is non-existent (the bus from Kuala Kubu Bharu no longer runs) and you'll have to arrange your own wheels in some form or another.

By road

Fraser's Hill is located 105 km north of Kuala Lumpur, around 2 hours by car. For a long time, access to Fraser's Hill was possible only via a 8 km one-lane road known as the The Gap, used by uphill and downhill traffic in turns. A new road was completed in 2001, but it has been plagued by repeated landslides, and is frequently closed for repairs.
When the Gap is the only option: Traffic control effective 7AM to 7PM. Odd hours for going up to Fraser's Hill and even hours for descending traffic.
When the new road is open: All downward traffic uses the new road, while the old Gap road is designated for upward traffic, with no time restrictions round the clock.
For road conditions from Kuala Kubu Bahru (KKB) or Raub to Fraser's Hill, contact the police station in Fraser's Hill at +60 9 3622222.

By train

The KTM Kommuter's northern run from Kuala Lumpur now reaches Kuala Kubu Baru, although you'll need to switch trains in Rawang (platform 2 for trains to KKB). From Kuala Kubu Baru, you can hire a taxi for RM70 one way. Arrange to have your driver pick you up when you want to return, as getting a taxi back otherwise will be tough.

By taxi

Apart from your own car, the easiest way is by using taxi from Kuala Lumpur. Normal KL taxis can't do the trip, but you can arrange one from the Puduraya bus station, or call up Selangor Radio Taxi (tel. 03-2936213) or Comfort Taxi (tel. 03-7330495). You can expect to be quoted around RM200 for a one-way transfer, but this can be negotiated down, even more so for a return trip.

For getting around Fraser's Hill, your own car is the best option. However there is no petrol station up in Fraser's Hill so remember to fill your tank before going uphill. Should you get caught without sufficient petrol in Fraser's Hill, ask the locals and they may sell some petrol to you in 1 litre bottles.
Most distances are, however, walkable if you're not in hurry and don't mind going up/downhill or taking the trails through the jungle.
Fraser's Hill is famed worldwide as a birdwatching destination, with over 250 species recorded. Winners during the annual Bird Race have spotted as many as 70 species within 24 hours!
  • Clock Tower. The central point of Fraser's Hill, this exceedingly British-looking little stone building covered with creeper vines is the most popular place to get your picture taken. The tower and the surrounding square are under renovation as of August 2008.
  • Jeriau Waterfalls, 5 km (30 min drive) from the town centre and then a 15-min walk. The falls are 6 meters high and fall into a shallow pool suitable for bathing. The area is equipped with restrooms and shelters for picnics.

The top sporting activities on Fraser's Hill are hiking and golf.


Royal Fraser's Hill Golf Club

Hiking

There are eight signposted trails around Fraser's Hill (map), although some have been closed at least temporarily after a well-publicized incident in 2005 when three young boys got lost in the jungle. Watch out for leeches.
  • Hemmant Trail. An easy 20-minute trail along the north side of the golf course.
  • Bishop's Trail. Effectively a continuation of the Hemmant Trail, this is a slightly more challenging half-hour track through the jungle. Slippery when wet.
  • Pine Tree Trail. A challenging 6 kilometer trail up and down hills to the eponymous Pine Tree Hill, and you'll have to return the way you came to boot. This is a full-day hike that will take 7-8 hours at a moderate pace.

Golf

  • Royal Fraser's Hill Golf Club. (All day 9 hole - Walking course) A short but very tight course. Open daily 8AM-7PM, green fees RM30/40 weekdays/weekends (whole day). Carry fee RM10. Golf sets available for rent at the Sports Complex.

Tennis

With such a delightful climate, Fraser's Hill ought to be perfect for tennis. Unfortunately, the courts have been neglected. Both Pines Resorts and SilverPark have courts, but they have fallen into disrepair. There are two public courts on the Pines Road (next to the Pahang Instana), but they are barely playable. The courts are filthy, so be prepared to discard your balls after a few plays (they turn from yellow to black).


While you can get your fill of Fraser's Hill T-shirts and fridge magnets from the souvenir shops around the clock tower, the most useful local fashion accessory in these parts is a pair of leech socks. Baggy stockings of unbleached cotton worn over your pants, these not only prevent unwanted blood transfusions, but also double as handy Christmas decorations if you paint on a reindeer or two.

  • Kraftangan & Cenderamata Bukit Fraser,a souvenir shop at the Sports Complex. T-shirts (RM19.90 to 35.90), fridge magnets, accessories (3 For RM10), and local souvenirs. Open on weekends/holidays only.
  • Start your visit by dropping into the Fraser's Hill Tourist Information Centre on Jalan Genting, to your left past the top gate of the Gap. They hand out a useful (albeit scaleless) map and can advise on trails and such.

For more details: wikitravel.org

Monday, September 20, 2010

Fraser's Hill




Not too far from the sweltering heat of the city, lies an ethereal land high above the sea - peaceful and calming. Morning dew settles on the fronds, reflecting rainbows of the sun like windows on soap bubbles floating on a breeze. Low, lingering clouds envelop the rolling hills sweeping in chilly air and thin frail mist in the wee hours of the morning.
About 103km from Kuala Lumpur is an area of seven hills originally named Ulu Tras just coming down the Titiwangsa Range. This range is the backbone of Peninsular Malaysia which runs from the Thai border all the way down south, ending in Negri Sembilan rarely dropping below a height of 1000m.
Louis James Fraser's Hill
Some hundred years ago, when the hills and mountains on the Titiwangsa Range looked too daunting to even contemplate climbing even by the British army, Scotsman Fraser was already recruiting a handful of guides and coolies to take him on his expedition to explore the upper ridges for gold and other precious metals.After hacking his way up the last 300m (height) to the top, he came upon an enchanting forest in the clouds. The moist environment creates a sublime forest of moss-draped trees and filmy ferns. The forest looks prehistoric, feels prehistoric and even smells prehistoric.
After years of providing mule transport service between Kuala Kubu Bahru and Raub, Fraser finally found a home, 1524m up a hill and away from the gossipy colonial community down below. The reclusive Scotsman travelled to Australia in search of gold at the peak of the gold rush and yet some change of destiny brought him to Malaya.
the golf course where Fraser's mine used to sit
Perhaps the same dream of striking gold in these hills was the reason for his coming. Gold he didn't find but instead he found rich tin deposits . He stayed on and opened a mine in the 1890's and employed Chinese miners to work the area. The tin ore was then transported down a perilous route on mules, winding down the side of the range to the nearest town, Raub. To lift the spirits of his Chinese workers, Fraser operated an opium and gambling den at the camp. This shrewd method of retaining his wealth certainly worked well.The wages paid out to the coolies would more often than not find their way back into the Fraser's ledgers through these dens.
Despite his newfound wealth and status Fraser mysteriously disappeared without a trace some 25 years later. He left behind everything he had worked hard for over the years. A search party was sent by the C.J Ferguson-Davie, Bishop of Singapore to look for him. The camp and mine were found deserted. They never found Fraser. Instead they discovered the perfect place for a hill station- a retreat from the heat of the lowlands. The British authorities had always been fond of hill stations where they could build little villages reminiscent of those in their beloved homeland.
The Bishop's house; a beautiful sprawling bungalow. Now derelict and in desperate need of repairs
Besides, the ongoing war in Europe had made it difficult for these expatriates to go home on leave. Upon his return to Singapore, the Bishop wrote a report to the government indicating that Fraser's Hill was ideal as a hill station for it could cheaply and quickly be developed. In 1919, work started on the access road to the hillstation from the Gap and by 1922, the hillstation named Fraser's Hill was opened to visitors.The hill station covered 140 hectares of land and had over 50km of jungle paths. In a 1927 'Handbook to British Malaya', it mentioned that there were 9 government bungalows for the use of government officials, 4 houses built with the help of Red Cross for ex-servicemen and women, 3 private homes, a 'country club', a golf course, and water supply was complete and of course a post office.
old clock doubles up as a roundabout in town
Fraser's Hill still retains its old colonial charm and should not to be missed. It is almost as if time has stood still for the 1,000 or so residents. They go about their same old ways throughout most of the week, waiting for the weekend to bring in a trickle of guests and visitors. Most of the old stone cottages previously owned by colonial traders have withstood the weather well. In the years of the British Empire, the British families retreated to the cool hill stations during the hot seasons. The cottages here resemble those found in their English villages, equipped with a cosy fireplace and meticulously cared for garden plots. An afternoon of croquet with friends was followed by afternoon tea and evening cocktails.
old post office built in 1917
Hainanese people were employed to run their kitchens and to maintain the cottages when not in use. The Hainanese are a group of Chinese people who originate from Hainan Island in Southern China. They were taught to cook English cuisine and serve it the English way. Fiercely loyal servants, the Hainanese remained in their employment until the British finally departed. Out of employment, these people later opened the now famous coffee shops found in KL and other cities. They continued to practise their culinary skills passing on their expertise to their next of kin. A few families remain in Fraser's Hill maintaining the traditions of providing exquisite service and excellent English fare.
This hill station was also built for another reason. The British army believed that there be a place for their injured soldiers to convalesce. The Red Cross set up a little rehabilitation centre there. It has been converted into a hotel called Ye Olde Smokehouse. Instead of hospital bunks, the interior is now decorated with eclectic furniture and collectibles, some of which seems to be leaning a little toward bric-a-brac items. With open wooden beams, log fires and lithographs of the old Fraser's Hill, the place exudes fading elegance. English Tea and scones are served at the patio or in the restaurant. The rooms each with its own with individual characteristics are worth a stay in, if only to experience a little of the past.
Below are just a few of the many private bungalows on Frasers. A few of them are owned by companies that do rent out to the public. The Glen bungalow is available for rental and is owned by KTMB, our national rail corporation. So, if you know someone who knows someone who can make arrangements for you to rent, its worth the experience....
army bungalow
aubyn bungalow
cottage
cottage
glen bungalow
guthrie bungalow
lion bungalow
maybank bungalow
mmc bungalow


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